Brewing anyone?

[Lenski65]

I haven't done an all grain batch yet, so i'm hoping for a 70% efficiency, my app tells me that with 12.25# grain i need 3.83 gall of strike water at 167.4 degrees, with 6.55 gallon of sparge at 172.6 degrees.
i need to run a test on the cooler/mash tun to see what kind of heat loss there is, just to verify these numbers. i need to stay around 152 to 155 average for the mash.
i'm hoping the accuracy pf the app is good, figuring on at least an 8 degree drop without preheating the mash tun.
any advice i'd love to have it! i've always done partials before, just mashing specialty grains, never a full batch. i have to go all grain, i stole the softball cooler and bastardized it to make my mash tun! lol

Depending on your sparge method, I fear you will blow past 70% efficiency. Make sure you have extra hops on hand. Pluff Mudd is not a very hoppy beer so if you overshoot your OG yet still use the same hop bill you might end up with a sweet underhopped brew.

 

[Pacerdad57]

Yep. Got the recipe from the brewmasterat holy city. Stopped.in a couple of years ago to try them out.
man they havegood brew. Asked.about a clone recipe and they basicallysaid sur3, here ya go!
Greatpeople.

 

[Pacerdad57]

Will do a preboil og check and adjust accordingly if I go past the recommended og.

 

[Pacerdad57]

Shooting for 1.039 OG by my app data

 

[okiedad1961]

I haven't done an all grain batch yet, so i'm hoping for a 70% efficiency, my app tells me that with 12.25# grain i need 3.83 gall of strike water at 167.4 degrees, with 6.55 gallon of sparge at 172.6 degrees.
i need to run a test on the cooler/mash tun to see what kind of heat loss there is, just to verify these numbers. i need to stay around 152 to 155 average for the mash.
i'm hoping the accuracy pf the app is good, figuring on at least an 8 degree drop without preheating the mash tun.
any advice i'd love to have it! i've always done partials before, just mashing specialty grains, never a full batch. i have to go all grain, i stole the softball cooler and bastardized it to make my mash tun! lol

Sounds like your doing your calculations for your batchs,Im usually starting w 10/12. gallons of strike water when doing a 10 gal batch so a greater mass of lower temp water ,some off flavors can occur at 165,and the same volume of sparge water ph correct and monitor gravity of runnings during sparge.

 

[Pacerdad57]

My numbers are wrong in the previous post. I'm shooting for an OG of 1.062, give or take and a final of1.014.
using safale 04 ale yeast (2 packets), love the stuff, easy to use and always good results.

 

[lewam3]

My god, this homebrew stuff has gotten a lot more technical! My first experience brewing at home was 14 years ago, we used a thermometer and something else with a float, a big ole glass jug with a rubber stopper and that was it. It made beer alright, hardly any fizz, and a big layer of dead yeast on the bottom. Have things improved since then? Len, you never brought any last summer...

 

[Lenski65]

Sounds like your doing your calculations for your batchs,Im usually starting w 10/12. gallons of strike water when doing a 10 gal batch so a greater mass of lower temp water ,some off flavors can occur at 165,and the same volume of sparge water ph correct and monitor gravity of runnings during sparge.

I'm not following you Okie. Are you saying you run a thin mash at about 4 qts of water to 1 lb of grain? When brewing I would use strike water at about 168F to achieve a mash at 154F and run about 1.3 to 1.5 qt/lb ratio and mash for about 2 hours so I made sure sacchrafication occurred. If you add grain then water in 8-10 intervals you will never have to worry about off flavors. If you add all the grain at once then all the strike water or vice versa some off flavors could possibly occur but unlikely depending on the amount of malt used. As long as the strike water is under 170F and the grain bed never exceeds 170F no excess tannins from the grain husks should leech into the liquor.

 

[Lenski65]

My god, this homebrew stuff has gotten a lot more technical! My first experience brewing at home was 14 years ago, we used a thermometer and something else with a float, a big ole glass jug with a rubber stopper and that was it. It made beer alright, hardly any fizz, and a big layer of dead yeast on the bottom. Have things improved since then? Len, you never brought any last summer...

I haven't brewed since my kids entered TB and club volleyball. That all changes now that they are all in college.

 

[Pacerdad57]

It's really easier than it sounds lewam! I just tend to worry and be too picky about stuff.
if ya go extract, with specialty grains to steep, ya can be done and cleaned up in 3 hrs or so,
and have great beer too. The all grain just gives you more room to adjust and experiment.
we need to start a brewing side thread I'm thinking...lol

 

[Pacerdad57]

I'm looking at a 1.33 qts/lb mash thickness on this. 3.88 gal strike vs 12.25# grain.
with a strike temp of 165 and a grain bed approximately 2 to 3 inch there shouldn't be
a problem with any over temps. My buddy that is the brewnaster at brew Bros said a 12 degree loss from 165 down to 153 should be doable and work fine, I just need to pay attention and get a good stirring at dough in, shut the box and let it go, checking it once about 20 minutes in to verify temp and then star my sparge.

 

[okiedad1961]

I'm not following you Okie. Are you saying you run a thin mash at about 4 qts of water to 1 lb of grain? When brewing I would use strike water at about 168F to achieve a mash at 154F and run about 1.3 to 1.5 qt/lb ratio and mash for about 2 hours so I made sure sacchrafication occurred. If you add grain then water in 8-10 intervals you will never have to worry about off flavors. If you add all the grain at once then all the strike water or vice versa some off flavors could possibly occur but unlikely depending on the amount of malt used. As long as the strike water is under 170F and the grain bed never exceeds 170F no excess tannins from the grain husks should leech into the liquor.

Lenski don't mind my rambling ,I'm usually using a lower strike temp because I like a higher % brew. Got a a whole binder of recipes I used when brewing,not a lot of time for it now w tb,do hunt down local brewery's when out of state showcasing.Let's try to get together at events to taste some home brews.maybe create a group on here to inform each other of where were at?

 

[Pacerdad57]

Lenski don't mind my rambling ,I'm usually using a lower strike temp because I like a higher % brew. Got a a whole binder of recipes I used when brewing,not a lot of time for it now w tb,do hunt down local brewery's when out of state showcasing.Let's try to get together at events to taste some home brews.maybe create a group on here to inform each other of where were at?

let me know where you're heading when ya go out of state, know some really good breweries.in NC, SC and a.really good one in Miami FLA

 

[Pacerdad57]

Well tomorrow.is the day to try the all grain brew. Pictures.will be posted.

 

[Pacerdad57]

About 20 minutes away from sparing my first full grain batch

 

[Pacerdad57]

About 20 minutes away from sparing my first full grain batch

View attachment 1050 View attachment 1050

 

[Pacerdad57]

manifold I built

 

[Pacerdad57]

Into the boil.....

 

[BouldersDad]

About 1/3 of the way thru a keg of Dunkel and just put 5 gal of Kolsch in a primary. I just hope the Dunkel lasts till the Kolsch is ready. Really hate the thought of buying bottled beer

 

[Pacerdad57]

I was.thinking of doing a dunkel next. That or an old.ale.
both really good. I'll let you know the final gravity in a few.weeks.